The systems are very similar, the difference is where the cold and hot air are vented. .
1. My car air conditioner is jacked up?
Many A/c systems are designed to release at low rpm, so the engine does not die. This is more common in cars with r34a systems. What year and make, engine and transmission?.
2. How can I secure an outside air conditioner?
Get a Trane and put a sign on it: "This unit has aluminum coils, not copper." That should help.
3. Air conditioner problem on 2000 Honda CRV?
Yes the fan should be on the whole time the A/C system is working. You say you have to jump the relay, are you sure it is the relay and not the low pressure switch? How do you know there is sufficient pressure, did you hook up a gauge set?
4. My Air Conditioner isn't cooling off my apartment and it won't turn off?
whats new the condenser ?or a/h i would look at evap coil see if clogged and of coarse clean filter and the charge and condenser coil
5. 95 Civic Air Conditioner recharge? Quotes??
if your inlet valve looks like the air valve on your car tier it is R12 but if it is much bigger it is R134a make sour you use R134 a not R134a with oil
6. My air conditioner is barely blowing any cold air out of the vents?
If its 30 years old it needs replaced or recharged
7. Breaker, wire and disconnect size for an air conditioner
Edit: I see you have called a professional. My apologies for misreading your question.It is not unheard of to have different contractors tell you different size wires- some will go for the minimum, some for future proofing. The cost difference between 10 gauge and 12 gauge is minimal, especially for short runs (other than being more difficult to bend). Different contractors may also know what the inspectors like to see- so if they are expecting to see a 10 gauge wire (30A), and the contractor installs 12 gauge (20A), they will get burned.With that said, absolute minimum is a 12gaug or 12/2 (so Hot-Hot Ground) However that assumes everything is 220V, and if the system has 110V anywhere then you might need a neutral. I do not know this particular unit, but a photo of the wiring diagram in the manual will help.The run from my AC is just under 10'. It should be protected in conduit outside the house, run to a disconnect box (fused at 30A), and from there via flex into the compressor.The cost of the wiring is negligible. The cost difference of the breakers should be 10$, maybe 20$ with markup. The labor is the expensive part. Assuming they are running a new lineset these costs should be the same. The manufacturer says the size of the copper lines, and copper is copper. If they say 20' of 3/8 you can look up the base price of that- and everyone should be scaled by the same amount (Do NOT think you are going to get copper lineset at store prices, not going to happen). Overall a bit of future proofing should be useful, but without more details- distance, quotes, environment (do you need a new pad, etc), and what after-the-install service is, prices can vary.There are websites you can go to to get an estimate as to what things cost in your community. They are distributions, obviously, but it may help. You probably do not want the cheapest bid, especially if it's by a margin. Calculate the median, average, and std. deviation of the prices. Always a good metric...You should call a professional. Typically there's a compressor and fan, and then an 24v AC that turns them on.You need the manual which will tell you the minimum sizes, wires, and whatnot, and you will also need to know local code for what they need to be run to and any external or internal disconnects you have to provide for service. Do this wrong and you will be lucky to end up in the hospital
8. Air conditioner refuses to work Help please!?
The first thing that goes out on these is the starting or run capacitor. It starts and stops? The condensor is probably turning on, cooling down the coil, until it freezes up, then it shuts off for quite a while. If you are handy, take the front panel off (on a workbench--unplugged) and there is a can-looking object with plug in wires. MARK THE WIRES for which terminal (they are probably Common, Fan, and Something else) Anyway, after you've marked them with masking tape, unplug the wires, take the cap to a Granger or McMaster-Carr or a HVAC parts store and ask for one just like it. Install it just the way it came out. Put it back together and plug it in on the workbench. See if it works before installing it again. Good luck.
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