Vicky Charles: Who Is Harry and Meghan's Decorator, and How Can You Get the Look?

The renovations are under way at Frogmore Cottage , the Duke and Duchess of Sussex's Windsor home, and as the couple are thought to havehired designer Vicky Charles , formerly of Soho House, to work on the decoration, the interiors are likely to be in line for a very stylish overhaul.

Charles is an extremely hot ticket in interiors at the moment, having worked with George and Amal Clooney and the Beckhams, among others. Before co-founding her own interior-design firm with her friend Julia Corden in 2016, she spent 20 years at the Soho House Group , where she started as a waitress and worked her way up to become the group's design director, with responsibility for the interiors of Soho Farmhouse in the Cotswolds and The Ned in London, as well as the group's houses in Malibu, Chicago and Barcelona. She also spearheaded the development of the Soho Home retail collection in 2016, which made the group's signature blend of traditional country-house style, laidback glamour and modern cool accessible to all.

Harry and Meghan are known admirers of the Soho House aesthetic - they spent their first date at the group's Dean Street Townhouse in London, and are also fans of Soho Farmhouse , where Meghan reportedly held her hen party. So what could be in line for the decor of their own home?

Charles herself has said that she never goes for a "cookie-cutter" approach when designing a property, and will always take into account what she calls "the bones of the building" and how its owners like to live. Although each Soho House has its own look, there is always, says Charles, a mix of "the grit and the glamour", and comfort is a recurring theme. It's an eclectic yet expertly pulled-together look.

In the case of Frogmore Cottage, we can perhaps expect a marriage of traditional English furniture and cool Californian styling: oversize sofas and armchairs in velvet or aged leather; a selection of carefully chosen antiques and vintage pieces; and subtly chic accessories. Here's how to get the look.

Velvet sofa An expansive, period-style velvet sofa is a key element of Soho House styling. This art-deco one was designed for The Ned, with an elegant curved back, and comes in dusky pink or midnight blue.

Edwin sofa , £3,995, Soho Home Burleigh china Charles often works on every aspect of an interior-design commission, down to choosing details such as the tableware. If that's the case here, she might well go for Burleigh china - she worked with the heritage British brand on an exclusive Soho Home collection.

Black Regal Peacock dinner plate , £13, Burleigh Antique furniture An antique wooden side table adds warmth and character, and that all-important effect of an interior that has evolved over time. Scour websites such as Vinterior for examples in a range of styles and prices.

Georgian oak side table , £975, Vinterior Fringed cushion Soho House might be singularly responsible for the vogue for tassels and fringing that is currently sweeping through interiors. If you can't quite get on board with a fringed sofa or chair, dip a toe in with an embellished cushion.

Fringes cushion cover , £36, by Day Birger Et Mikkelsen, from Amara Decorative lighting A mix of lighting is key to creating a warm, clubby atmosphere - plentiful wall lights, floor lamps and table lamps, as well as statement pendant fittings. Decorative shades add a splash of pattern.

Drake wall light with gathered empire shade, £72, Pooky Statement bed Nothing says country house like a comfortable, oversize bed. This one, with its chesterfield headboard, is similar to the sleigh beds found at Soho Farmhouse; just add luxurious Frette bedlinen for the full effect.

Orkney super-kingsize bed , £949, Made.com Telegraph Media Group Limited 2019 Need help?

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Is There a Modern Looking Bed Side Table with a Hidden Compartment Out There?
go to Osco and you will find it1. why beverage is always served on the right side of the table?Yes, what Wymugs said, EXACTLY2. What do you keep on your bed side table?a lamp,and the remote3. Since most people are right handed, why is the fork placed on the left-hand side of a table place setting?WHAT? I dont even get any fork. All i get is a pair of chosticks on my right and nothing on my left. This is discrimination.4. During the last supper of Jesus, why did everybody sit on only one side of the table?What are you talking about?The table that the Last Supper was eaten at was horseshoe-shaped, with everyone reclining on their sides.Jesus sat in the number 2 spot as the host; John the beloved disciple sat in the number 1 spot, and Judas sat in the number 3 spot (the spot usually reserved for the guest of honor). Peter sat in the 13 spot, the lowest one on the totem pole and usually reserved for servants.5. When eating out, does it bother you that theres nasty crap on the under side of the table?Yes. It speaks to the quality of the restaurant. A good quality restaurant will check that kind of thing, as well as have high enough prices to where people who have the habit of sticking their gum under the table will be weeded out. Plus, like someone else said, if there's stuff stuck under the table, you might accidentally touch it at some point throughout your meal. eww!6. why did all of the apossles sit on one side of the table at the last supper???maybe the other side was against the wall7. Waht to do about my wobbly side table?Your FLOOR is the problem. I an willing to BET that I can take ANY table and position it SOMEWHERE on your floor and it will wobble. I am also willing to bet, but not as much, that I can position the table you have somewhere on your floor and it wo not wobble. This is true for EVERY 4 legged table and EVERY floor. I would find rubber shims to place under one of the legs to stop the wobble8. Inserting a logo at the left side of the table without changing the width of rest of the rowsYou do not need to use multirow simply move the image before the table. You can use adjustbox to vertically centre the image.Do not specify both height and width to includegraphics unless you also use keepaspectratio or the image will be distorted.Size commands like tiny to not take an argument.cline numbers need to be in ascending order (but I just used hline here).9. In ping-pong, does the ball have to hit your side of the table before you can hit the ball back?You can hit the ball even before the ball touches your side of the table. This is often difficult to do though as it is harder to gauge the intensity of hitting the ball10. why did all of the apossles sit on one side of the table at the last supper???The artist painted the picture a few hundred years after the fact, and he obviously was not there, so he decided to try to put all the faces on the painting, and that's the only way he could figure to do it. In fact, at that time in Israel's history, they would not have even had chairs, they would have been laying around on pillows on the floor eating off of a low table. The painting also shows a lot of long hair, and Jewish men of that time did not wear their hair long. It's just an artists rendering of what he thought it might have been like11. Where to buy a bright red side table?I would look at Ikea. They always seem to have some outstanding furniture that is also affordable. Another idea is to buy a unfinished table and paint it the color you want.12. what's on your bed side table?lamp, a great book, a rotating fan, some pens, my journal13. How To Choose The Perfect Side Table - Frances HuntIt might seem silly, but if you do not take into consideration living room furniture arrangement before you go out and buy your side tables, you could end up with a living room that just feels a little unnatural, like something's not quite right. This kind of unexplainable discomfort in a living room is usually all down to furniture arrangement. There are typically only a handful of locations in the living room where a side table just looks right: One side table either side of a long sofa One side table separating two sofas perpendicular to each other One side table in the corner of the living room The purpose of having a side table is to provide an additional surface in your living room which, due to the smaller size of a side table, can easily be tucked away in awkward spaces or placed wherever you need an extra surface without taking up too much room. If the side table is to be used as an extra surface in addition to a coffee table, you need to be able to reach the side table easily from your seat. Side tables are great for the far corners of the living room where you can not easily reach the coffee table in the centre. The table should be the same height as the sofa's arm preferably, so that someone need only extend their arm to put down their drink. Any armchairs or accent chairs in the living room should have a side table beside it as somewhere to put drinks, glasses, books, etc. The side table is also used to create a sense of visual balance and harmony in the living room. In smaller living rooms, having a side table or two is a great space-saving alternative to a coffee table. But in bigger living rooms there is no reason why you cannot have both. Nothing's worse than being given a nice hot cup of coffee when you are visiting someone at their home, then finding yourself having to awkwardly hold the cup in your hand the entire time as you are not quite sure where to put it down. Do you just put it down on the floor next to your seat? Should you make an effort to get up and put it down on the coffee table or the bookcase? Should you ask them where to put it? By providing an obvious surface beside anywhere that a guest may be seated, you can eliminate any potential awkwardness and guests are able to put down and pick up items without giving it any thought. Not sure what to put on the side table so it does not look quite so bare when not in active use? You could perhaps have a book on your side table to give you something to easily pick up and flick through when you are sitting in the seat next to it. Or you can use something tall like a lamp or a vase of flowers to create a sense of height and give the side table a bit more presence in the room - this works great for side tables that are used as separators in between sofas and armchairs. Side tables come in a huge variety of different finishes and styles, from traditional to contemporary. It's important to match your side tables to the rest of your living room furniture, to continue the general theme.
Brad Pitt's New Gig: Furniture Designer! | E! News
Normally when celebrities look to expand their branding empire, they turn to the worlds of makeup and fragrance. Well, leave it to Brad Pitt to break from the ranks, as Angelina Jolie's betrothed has taken time out from his busy schedule of making parody-ready Chanel No. 5 ads to collaborate on his own line of furniture.And while it may seem unusual, it's not exactly a surprise, as Pitt has long been styling himself into an architecture and design buff.As for when we get to see the fruits of Pitt's labor, it's not long now.According to Architectural Digest, which has chronicled Pitt's transformation from silver screen god to Art Deco designer extraordinaire, Pitt's debut furniture collection will be made public at a multiday unveiling taking place Nov. 13-15 in New York. (For those without tickets, fear not, it will also be featured on the collaborators' new website.)Pitt will present 12 pieces, among them tables, chairs and what the magazine describes as "one rather fantastic bed," all of which he designed with furniture maker Frank Pollaro.And to hear Pitt tell it, this seemingly random partnership has been years-decades, practically-in the making."I've been doodling ideas for buildings and furniture since the early 1990s, when I first discovered [Charles Rennie] Mackintosh and Frank Lloyd Wright," he told AD. "Actually, I found Wright in college, when I was looking for a lazy two-point credit to get out of French. It forever changed my life."And while we won't see the actual pieces until next week, the magazine gives us a taster of what's to come, describing the bed (only nine of which will be produced, so get it while you can, collectors) as having a tropical-hardwood frame, exposed nickel trusses and built-in cantilevered bench, while other pieces include a 17-foot wood dining table, nickel side tables with silk-under-glass tops, and another side table whose spiral base is finished in 24K gold.Still, while Pitt seems to have found himself a new calling, fans don't need to worry about him jumping cinematic ship, as the star is, even now, reticent to even call himself a furniture designer."Let's not get ahead of ourselves," he told the magazine. Phew.
Hockey Night in Canada the Simpsons Takes Shot at Senators in Canadian-themed Episode
The Ottawa Senators were unable to avoid being the punchline of a joke on Sunday's Canadian-themed episode of The Simpsons.The episode, titled D'Oh Canada,featured a scene with Lisa Simpson recovering in a Canadian hospital with an RCMP officer in uniform at her bedside.He tells Lisa that while in Canada she would be "assigned her own hockey team."Lisa responded by crossing her fingers and repeatedly praying "please not Ottawa," before the Mountie put a Senators cap on her head and apologized for the disappointment.The Senators finished last in the NHL with a 29-47-6 record in 2018-19.It was a season of drama right from the start of training camp when captain Erik Karlsson was traded to the San Jose Sharks.D'Oh Canada! Canadian journalist voicing Trudeau on The Simpsons thanks to YouTube videoSenators players caught trash-talking team on video recordingThe episode highlighted many Canadian sports stereotypes including a shot of children with curling brooms, and featured another scene with a Stanley Cup-designed lamp sitting on a side table and a rug covered with Quebec Nordiques logos.The Simpsons visit Niagara Falls and, through a series of mishaps, Lisa goes over the powerful flow of water that separates Ontario and New York.She lands on the Canadian side and is admitted to hospital, where she is made an honorary Senators fan while learning about Canadian healthcare coverage.The Simpsons' consulting producer Tim Long grew up in Exeter, Ont. He's one of three Canadian writers, the others being Joel H. Cohen and Jeff Westbrook.
Yew & Walnut Live Edge Side Table
In this Instructable I will show you how I made a little live edge side table for my front room.We were using a pair of wooden steps as a side table previously, as we've two arm chairs we weren't really sitting in so once we started using these chairs we had no where to put down drinks, remotes and other lounge junk. At the time the steps were handy and the perfect height, unfortunately once they had been commandeered as a side table, using them as steps was then a pain as you'd have to remove all the stuff off them and if you did use them the feet would usually come back dirty and have to be cleaned before putting it back on the carpet for its table use.All in all it wasn't ideal so after spotting a nice piece of Yew at a timber yard I decided to make a dedicated side table for the chairs instead. As with all my instructables I used a wide variety of tools that I have available in my garage, but as usual there are a number of different ways to do things so you can always use what's available to you and what works best. Below are all the items I used:ToolsMaterialsAs you can see I've used a lot of machinery on this build, but you can cut and plane everything by hand if you don't have this equipment. The machines just speed up the process, which is nice. The slab I used for the table top is a piece of Yew I saw at a timber yard, it is an unusual shape but it had such a nice grain pattern with a variety of colours including some purple and reds, I was never not buying it.The yard I got the slab from machine all their slabs before sale so people can see the grain and it gives an initial flat surface to work on.Because of this I didn't need to flatten the slab further with my router sled, as I was already happy with its thickness and flatness. (If you do want to know how to level a slab however check out my resin & cherry coffee table instructable where I had a lot of flattening to do).Now the slab may be fairly flat but it was covered in bark and had lots of little shoots sprouting out of it, all these needed to be removed so the slab was clean and dry bits of bark wouldn't be falling off it in the future.To remove the shoots and bark I first started off with a wood chisel and a mallet scraping and prying away at the bark, taking off chunks here and there and using the chisel to cut through and remove the shoots . After about 20 minutes however it was clear this wasn't going to work very well as a lot of the bark was in hard to reach areas, in hollows and confined spaces where the braches of the tree would have originally been. I'd managed to remove some large chunks of bark but the remaining was going to be tougher to remove carrying on with this method.At this point I switched to a small round wire brush fitted in my cordless drill. This was immediately great, squeezing into many of the smaller tighter areas and stripping away the bark with ease getting down to the timbers surface in many areas. However even this was still too big to reach some areas of the slab, so I switched to my Dremel multitool with a tiny wire brush head and then a drum sanding head fitted. My Dremel has a flexi attachment so it allows me to use it like a pen and this made it really easy to access every part of the slab, with the small wire brush removing the majority of the bark and dirt before I used the little sanding drum attachment to remove the rest down to the bare wood. Because my Dremel also has a speed control it allowed me to adjust it so that I wasn't removing bark to quickly then sanding into and marking the Yew underneath.After what, probably a couple of hours, it seemed like forever the slab was in a state I was happy with. It wasn't completely clean of all bark but I'd left some bits on as I though they looked good, others I could have spent another two hours trying to remove because of their location. This was one of those jobs where you think you're happy then spot something and start working again, before you know it many an hour has passed, but it was worth it my slab now looked good. The legs on this project are made from some American Black Walnut that I had left over from another project. I love the look of walnut but rarely use it due to the cost unfortunately (For example for a similar sized piece of Walnut to the Yew I'm using here it was £60 compared to the £20 I paid for the Yew, 3 times the price!!). But for this project I thought the contrast in colour would work well with the Yew top and like I said I already had it lying around.Before I could cut and shaped the legs I first needed to get the Walnut flat and level. I had two lengths of Walnut both different thicknesses and widths and needed to get 3 legs out of it. To achieve this I used my jointer/planer and then my planer/thicknesser. To begin I passed one edge of each piece of walnut over the jointer removing small amounts of material at a time until I had a smooth edge all the way along with no rough or high/low areas.Next using this newly straight edge I positioned it flat up to the fence on my jointer which was set at 90 degrees to the blade, so that one rough face of the timber was sat on the table ready to run over the blade.Repeating the same process as before I pushed the timber over the blades removing a little material at a time until again I had a nice flat surface on one side on both lengths of Walnut.Now that each piece had one flat edge and one flat face I could use my planer/thicknesser to sort the others out. Because one of my pieces of Walnut was thicker than the other however this piece first needed to be made the same thickness, the width didn't matter as the wider piece would allow me to get two legs from it. To begin I simply set the height of the planer to just higher than the thicker timbers height and with the flat face, face down ran the Walnut through the planer so that the opposite rough face came into contact with the blade and removed material parallel to the already flat face. After each pass I'd lower the planers blade a millimetre at a time before passing the walnut through again until I'd roughly matched the thicker piece with the thinner piece of Walnut. At this stage I could now pass both pieces of Walnut through planer at the same time one after the other so each was been planed by the same amount and the thicknesses kept equal. I passed each piece through until I had completely flat faces, again with no rough marks or high/low spots. I could now raise the height of the blades on the planer and repeat the process for the remaining edges on each Walnut board, only planning each piece until the remaining edges were flat, as like I said the different widths weren't an issue as the wider piece was to provide me two legs. Now my Walnut was all flat and square it was time to mark out and cut my legs. Because of the shape of the Yew slab I was making three legs.The steps we'd previously been using up until this point were actually the perfect height, so the length of my legs were made to reflect this height, minus the thickness of the Yew top.With the two Walnut lengths marked for this height, 500mm I used my chop saw to cut both pieces to length. To add a bit of detail to the legs I wanted to taper them slightly, the easiest was to do this was to use my table saw and a taper jig that I'd previously made for another table project. However due to the thickness of the other projects legs my jig was too big, so I had to add another side to the jig to cut smaller pieces of timber.To determine the angle for the jig I marked out an diagonal line on both pieces of Walnut. Starting at one end I measured and marked 40mm across and then drew a line diagonally to a mark at 20mm on the opposite end of the board. These dimensions would allow me to get the two legs out of the wider piece of Walnut allowing for the thickness of the cutting blade also.With the Diagonal line drawn I also marked it down each end to aid in setting up my taper jig.The jig itself is basically just a piece of plywood with a baton and a stop screwed to it that my Walnut sits tight against at the chosen angle. Part of the walnut then sits over the edge of the plywood which fits between the blade and saw fence, meaning any Walnut over this plywood edge is removed by the blade, thus giving me the taper. Multiple pieces of Walnut can then be passed through using the jig to all give the same taper and yield 3 matching legs. As my existing jig was too big I quickly added a smaller version to the same one.I first lined up my drawn marks on the ends of my Walnut with the straight edge of the plywood base on the jig. With this in place I then screwed a baton along the edge of the Walnut that was on top of the plywood, this gave me a fence if you like set at the angle of my taper. With the baton in place I could then screw a stop block at the bottom of the baton, this block keeps the timber in place when its pushed against the blade and stops it slipping back ruining the taper.To hold my Walnut in place whilst cutting I also moved a toggle clamp over from the larger jig to this smaller one, this is just a quick way of clamping the timber to the jig and stops the Walnut moving around, keeping it flat whilst its been cut. With the jig complete all that was left to do was position the fence on my table saw so that the plywood sits fairly snug between the blade and fence. I could then clamp in a piece of Walnut and run it through the saw to cut my first taper. With the first one a success I passed the second board through to give me a second leg. For the final leg I used the offcut from the second, turned it over so the flat square edge was against the baton, clamped it down and passed it through a final time. I now had 3 matching legs all tapered perfectly.To attach the legs to the top I used dowels, so the next stage was marking the holes for these dowels.Firstly I started with the legs, but because I didn't want straight 90 degree legs from the top I first cut a 10 degree angle at the top of each leg using my chop saw. This would ensure once the legs were secured to the top they would have a nice slope on them and increase the stability of the table by giving a wider footprint between all three legs.With the angles cut I could move on to marking out the holes for the dowels.Each leg was to have two dowels to hold it in place and I'd chosen 10mm diameter dowels for strength. The top of each of my legs were 40mm long by 20mm wide, so using a square, a tape measure and a pencil I marked a centre line at 10mm with intersecting lines at 10 & 30mm. Where the lines crossed the centre line were to be the centres for my holes and I marked these with a bradawl to give the drill bit a point to start. I repeated these measurements on all 3 legs.To drill the holes I used a couple of wood drills, firstly a small pilot drill fitted with a depth stop so I didn't drill too deep and come through the side of the legs. The stop was fitted to the drill bit at half the length of the dowel, around 20mm.With the drill ready I secured each leg in turn into my vise making sure the edge to be drilled was parallel with the top edge of my vice so I could drill straight at 90 degrees to this edge, as when the legs go on the table top this edge meets the bottom of the Yew at parallel angles.With the leg secured I used the pilot drill to drill down to the depth dictated by the stop, making sure the tip of the drill was sat in the mark I made with the bradawl. With the pilot hole drilled I could then use the larger 10mm drill to widen the hole to accept the dowel. I couldn't find my 10mm drill stop anywhere so in the meantime I just used a piece of electrical tape wrapped at the same point as the stop on the pilot drill as an indicator for depth. I drilled each leg 4 times, two pilot holes followed by 2 final diameter holes until all the legs were drilled out.With the holes for the dowels drilled in the legs I now needed to transfer these holes to the base of the Yew slab.To aid with this I have a little dowel kit that my grandad used many years ago when he was a engineering lecturer. I found it along with a whole lot of other stuff when we cleared out his garage after he died. The kit comprises of little metal dowels that sit inside the holes I've just drilled. These metal dowels have a little spike in the centre that protrude from the hole so that when you place the leg over the surface it is to be joined to, the Yew in my case, you can push down on the leg against the Yews surface where the leg is to be positioned. The little metal spikes then create a mark in the timber to be joined so you know where to drill your holes, simple but effective.In the kit there are two sizes of these metal dowels, the smaller ones have a little flange round the top to stop the dowel falling into the hole when you push down. the larger ones however and the ones I needed to use, don't have this feature, so to stop them sliding down and not been able to get them out again I simply cut a smaller dowel in half and placed it in the hole so the metal dowel had something to sit on and stop it being pushed in.The positions for my legs on the Yew could now be marked out with the metal dowels. For the front leg there was only one place it was going, so with the dowels in place in one of the legs I placed it in position over the Yew and pushed down hard enough for the spikes to make there marks. With the two drills used to drill out the legs earlier I then made two holes in the Yew to accept the 10mm wooden dowels that would attach the leg.For the two back legs I wanted to get them at the same angle to one another, so I made a little hardboard template. First I drew a straight line across the back of the Yew slab that the template would sit up against. From this I then kind of judged a good centre point where the table would balance on each leg. Its hard to mark a centre when the Yew was such an irregular shape but by mostly doing it by eye I got close enough.With this centre line transferred to my template I could then measure up from it and mark where each leg would sit. Using a protractor I drew the outline of each leg on the template making sure the angles matched for each side.With the outline drawn I could then use the metal dowels in each remaining leg to mark the template accordingly and drill small pilot holes though the template to allow me to transfer the marks to the Yew below.Now that I had all my holes drilled to be able to attach my legs I decided that I wasn't happy with the look of the legs, there was something missing.So I decided to add a chamfer to each edge of the legs to remove the simple squareness of each leg.To do this I simply used a chamfer bit in my palm router, set the depth to only remove the slightest bit of material and with the legs clamped in my vise one by one, I ran the router over each leg 4 times. Once down each edge of each leg, rotating the legs after every two passes so as to access the bottom side of the legs. With all the legs routed I was now happy with how they looked and they felt a lot more tactile.Now that I had all my parts ready to assemble I needed to finish them off so that everything was nice and smooth and all pencil marks and blemishes were removed best as I could.This required me to break out the sander and spend a while working through the grits to get a decent finish. Sanding is always the most laborious part of any project, but without it your project never reaches its full potential and there is a lot of satisfaction in taking something from a dark, dirty, rough piece of timber to a flat smooth work of art with the grain popping. Initially I started out with my orbital sander using a 120 grit paper working up to a 400 grit one. The orbital is great as its quick and easy to use and made quick work of sanding my legs and the flat surfaces on the Yew, leaving behind a super smooth finish once I'd gone allover with the 400 grit.Because of the live edge nature of the Yew however my orbital sander wasn't really any good for the edges of the slab, as its far too big and cumbersome to fit in between and follow the contours of the slab. I do have a sanding roller which would have worked better, but unfortunately all my rollers and pads were well worn from another project, so it wasn't an option.Having used my Dremel earlier to strip the bark off I'd used a little 120 grit sanding drum attachment, so the live edge of the slab was already sanded back pretty well, I just needed to smooth it best I could and remove a few blemishes the Dremel had left behind. The only way to do this really was by hand as I could fold the paper and use little blocks of wood to get in to all the little nooks. As the Dremel had already stripped it to 120 grit, I started off with a 240 paper to remove the blemishes, finishing it with a 400 to get as smooth a surface as possible ready for finish. With everything sanded back to 400 I used an old paintbrush to brush of any surface dust and get in between all the live edges so the wood was ready to be oiled. I've not a lot of photos here, but sanding is sanding isn't it. It needs to be done but no one enjoys it.With the sanding complete I decided to finish the legs and slab separately before gluing them together.The finish I had chosen to use was Danish Oil. I previously made a coatrack from a slab of Yew and the Danish Oil gave a lovely smooth finish on that and really brought out the grain, so I was hoping for a repeat performance on my little side table.Using a paintbrush I started applying a liberal amount of oil on to the Yew slab making sure to get in all the little crevices and holes and end grain so that the slab was completely covered.As soon as the oil hit the slab the change in colour was dramatic with the grain leaping out at you and all the subtle purple and reds in the slab coming to the forefront. With the oil soaking in I hung the slab up on my bike rack using a strap so that the oil could dry and the slab wasn't marked or contaminated by dust and debris by resting it on a flat surface.Whilst the slab was hanging I could then apply the oil to my legs. Again as soon as the oil hit the Walnut that lovely rich brown colour with the grain is revealed and all that sanding previously becomes worth it.I coated all the legs with the oil except the top surfaces where the holes for the dowels were mainly because this is where I was holding them whilst oiling.With everything now oiled I left it all to dry for about 5-6 hours so the oil had chance to soak in fully and dry in to the wood. 5-6 hours later I returned to find the oil about dry, still sticky in places on the Yew where it had pooled slightly, but dry enough to finish. I removed the slab from my rack and placed everything back on my bench with carpet on top so as not to scratch anything and damage it.With the pieces laid out in front of me I used and old tea towel to rub down the surface of each part removing any excess oil and polishing the timber to a nice smooth shine. After 5-10 minutes using the towel I then switched to a cone shaped polisher I had fitted in my cordless drill. The cone shape allowed me to better polish the live edge as it fitted in between the awkward shapes. It also gave a better shine on the flat surfaces as it polished a lot faster than I could by hand. After 15-20 minutes worth of polishing with the cone I was happy with the finish and it all felt silky smooth to the touch.I finally had all the pieces ready, smooth, shiny and ready to be assembled.Being a simple design with only 4 elements assembly was quick and easy. I first started by gluing and inserting the dowels into the holes I drilled on the base of the slab, tapping them home with a rubber mallet so as not to damage the ends of the dowels.With the dowels secured in to the base I could then apply glue into the holes on each leg before locating the legs over the dowels in the base.With the dowels locating in the holes on each of the legs, I then pushed the legs down to make a tight joint against the Yew slab, again using the mallet to help tap the legs home and get the tightest fit possible without damaging anything.Now that all 3 legs were attached I wiped away any excess glue that had squeezed from the joints, before turning the table over and leaving it overnight for the glue to set and the legs to be firmly attached.The next day the glue was dry and the table was ready to take up its place in my front room.This table took me a couple of days to put together and I love the end result.Hope you guys enjoyed reading through, let me know what you think.See you on the next build.
Bedside Table Buying Guide - Frances Hunt
We know how important the perfect bedside table is as to its usefulness and so in responding to that, we've put together the ultimate bedside table buying guide in order to assist you in finding the best bedside table for your home. A bedside table is used for a variety of reasons, allowing extra storage for clothes and underwear, a place to put your alarm clock, mobile phone, jewellery or even a table lamp. When deciding what type of bedside table to purchase there are some important points to consider: what you will use the bedside table for, choosing the best style and design and much more. We have highlighted these below in our bedside table buying guide for you to explore. What will you be using the bedside table for? Are you looking for somewhere just to place your alarm clock, or bedside lamp, perhaps you wish just to lay spare change or somewhere to place your watch when you are asleep, well then a nightstand or bedside table will do the trick. However if you are looking to store more items, many of which you dont wish to be on display, like a remote control for the tv, your mobile telephone, underwear or paperwork well then you should look at better storage options usually available with a bedside chest or bedside cabinet, both have plenty or storage and allow you to de-clutter your bedroom even more! In many bedrooms, bedside tables can be used as the bedroom's focal point, therefore style and design are critical. Firstly, you must make sure the bedside table matches the bedroom dcor. Ask yourself the question: Am I looking to decorate my bedroom in a traditional or contemporary style? Do I want my table to be made out of wood, metal or glass? Traditional styled bedside tables are generally wooden painted bedside tables, sometimes carved with attractive detailing and clean lines giving a period look. Perhaps contemporary is more your style, well then why not make a bold statement with vibrant colours. High gloss bedsides (usually available in bright colours) and mirrored bedside tables are very popular with interior designers and luxury hotels and will beautifully contrast with your bedroom furniture. For spare bedrooms, tenants and landlords, simplicity and practicality could be your objective (that you need extra storage, or somewhere to put an alarm clock) well then search for a plain bedside table or bedside chest, both basic and inoffensive, designed to match all bedroom interiors. How wide should the nightstand be? This can be a stumbling point for many people searching for a bedside table. These days with more and more housing needed, bedrooms seem to be getting smaller and smaller, especially in town centres. The double bedroom is no longer a proper double (hence the need for small double beds) and can cause a real lack of space for bedroom furniture such as bedside tables. Whilst you might want space for two bedside tables (one either side of your bed frame) you may only have room for one, it's important to measure the maximum width, depth and height of the space where you wish your bedside table to go. Then ask yourself the following questions: Will it comfortably fit by the side of your bed? Does your bed have drawers and will these drawers still open with a bedside next to it? Will the bedroom look cluttered with two bedside tables or is it better to just have one so as not to take up too much space? If space is of no concern to you and you have a large bedroom then perhaps contemporary wide bedside tables will be better suited so as to give the feeling that your bedroom is not so empty looking. What is the ideal bedside table height? The ideal bedside table height should level out at the same height as the mattress comes up to upon your bed. The best bedside table height should be at equal height with the mattress, in order to ensure that both placing and removing items off the table is easily done - even whilst laying down in bed. If the bedside table is too small, or too high, it can make accessing those late-night grabs a bit tricky.1. Furniture RetailingFurniture retailing industry comprises companies that operate by producing, retailing and selling furnitures across a number of household categories, including bedroom, dining, lounge, kitchen and for various types official and commercial spaces. Operators in this industry primarily sell household, outdoor and office furniture, except those sold in combination with office supplies and equipment. This industry predominantly markets living room, dining room and bedroom furniture , followed by demand for upholstered furniture. Desks and home office goods, lamps, recliners, rugs and outdoor furniture make up the rest of sales. The sale of mattresses, blinds, awnings and antique-reproduced furniture is also included in the industry. Industry retailers generally operate from large stores that enable them to showcase their product range. Both company-owned and franchised stores are included in the industry. Over the past five years, consumer demand for furniture products has been affected by volatility in the house construction market caused by unfavorable housing affordability and high household debt. As a result, the furniture retailing industry faced annual fluctuations in demand for furniture from new home owners. According to Burgio-Ficca, despite some volatility, retail spending on furniture products is likely to have benefited from an overall decline in interest rates as this increased consumer discretionary spending. Industry profitability is expected to post varied results over the past five years. While profit margins were hindered by the softer retail economy, profitability improved in the second half of the five-year period as revenue rebounded. Furniture retailers are forecast to benefit from improved trading conditions over the next five years. IBISWorld expects demand to be driven by continued growth in disposable incomes, which will positively influence expenditure on furniture goods. However, retail spending will be affected by projected volatility in consumer sentiment, rising interest rates and continued competition from external players. An upturn in the house construction market over the first half of the five years through 2018-19 is expected to aid growth in industry revenue. The industry is characterized by a low level of market share concentration. Barriers to entry and capital requirements for new players are low and do not hinder potential operators from entering the industry.2. what store should i go to for bedroom furniture and accessories?Pier One Imports has some really good stuff. You can find just about anything there3. Benefits Of Choosing A Bedroom Set From A Reputed Local StoreWe always try to find products that last longer and cost cheaper. Depending on the genre of the products, the factors influencing the buying decision vary. For instance, when you have decided to buy a dressing table or a dresser, you will have to check its material, sturdiness, durability, and price. In fact, the buying time will also become a prime factor to consider as your budget will totally depend on it. The concerns become deeper when you have to remodel your bedroom and own new furniture sets. There are many ways you can follow and find out the best masterpieces for your bedroom. One such way to discover the most efficient and beautiful interior of your bedroom is to choose bedroom sets. This is where you will not have to break a sweat to figure out a perfect theme or scratch your head to match the present assets with the future ones. There are many benefits of choosing a bedroom set rather than going solo on each requirement and then assembling to decorate your bedroom. Find the benefits mentioned below and decide. Probably, the most convenient way to redecorate and reinvent the interior of your bedroom is by choosing a bedroom set. Approach a local store that offers the Best bedroom furniture Glendale AZ where you will find a plethora of items to choose from. You can also make the process easier. Log in to the online stores to find the catalogs of the trending items. There, you will find many new ideas to follow and search for the most suitable ones. In fact, all the online portals of the reputed stores provide vivid information about the furniture items in the set. You will easily get the measurements and find out whether a set is compatible with the available space in your bedroom beforehand. Narrowing down the options will become a lot easier. No more hassles of finding matching units The biggest challenge a homeowner faces is when he has to find the matching units with the existing furniture. If you have to find a single item, the job is easier to comprehend and accomplish. When you have an entire bedroom to decorate, going for a set is ideal. Search for the local and reputed bedroom furniture store that offers the ideal collection of such sets. You will save yourself from a lot of troubles. A bedroom set contains a bed, dresser, chest, and a nightstand. A chest might be optional as it is not chosen as a part of the bedroom plans widely. Nothing seems to be better and more satisfactory when you find the ideal furniture units together. The similar tone of the wood and design used will automatically set the interior of your bedroom on the right track. Forget the hassles of searching for furniture units with a similar tone in the market. All the units in the set can be delivered to your doorstep in a single shot. All you have to do is to approach a reputed store offering bedroom furniture Phoenix in sets. The store is obligated to provide delivery services (sometimes free). You will not have to worry or hassle for the delivery of the items individually. The items will reach the desired destination within the stipulated amount of time. In fact, the store will also take the responsibility of delivering the items without any scratch. A reputed store close to your location is the ideal choice when you are planning to make a good investment. The reasons for choosing a popular furniture store in Phoenix, Arizona are mentioned below. You will easily find out the reputation of a targeted store easily. The feedback and testimonials from the previous and existing clients will give you a clear idea about the product and service offered by the stores. Moreover, the local stores treat local customers extremely well in order to maintain a reputation. A store near you will also offer discount bedroom furniture during the seasonal sale time. You can easily plan for the right time and reach the store to get the chosen items. The store will be happy to serve locals and will also offer an exclusive delivery service in exchange for minimum or no charge. This is where the local reputed store differs from that of the bigger brands. You will get a brilliant post-sale service without any compromise from the team. Get the best bedroom furniture today If you are looking for the ideal furniture store in Phoenix and Glendale, Arizona to buy bedroom furniture then Leon Furniture Store is the perfect address. Get the most trending and popular furniture designs here during a bedroom furniture sale and make your dream bedroom a reality.
Local Furniture Makes It to Google's Hong Kong HQ
Google's search for the perfect lunch room sidekick has led all the way to Mount Maunganui and local furniture designer, Timothy John. The online search engine giant has ordered 10 tall yellow Sidekick stools and three black side tables for its Hong Kong head office, an order which Timothy and his team have completed and shipped just this week. The stools are completely manufactured in the Bay, with the metal bases made by Starex and Bayform, and wooden tops crafted by Everwood. They are sold exclusively at the Mount's Paper Plane Store, which is owned by Timothy and his wife and business partner, Krista Plews. Timothy assembles each stool himself, by hand, a deliberate decision to maintain complete control, he says. "If it's [being made] in China or somewhere else, you don't know until you've got 200 of them land on your doorstep and they're all wrong," he says. "We're happy with this model and how it works. It's personal all round, from the manufacturing point of view and the product point of view, as far as dealing with the customer. We do that personally, the whole way through." Krista says by manufacturing locally they can do smaller runs and keep a close eye on quality. "Just working with the local community to me is our responsibility in business . . . If the resources are here we want to support our local economy," she says. "We've never found that that's a compromise in quality, or timing or price at all. The local manufacturers are really competitive with the Auckland manufacturers. We're still able to do everything we want." Timothy's Sidekick design was born in 2012 in a couple of hours, scrawled on the side of a paper bag while Krista was out shopping. The shape was inspired by glass science flasks with cork tops and Timothy says he built about seven prototypes by hand before arriving at the final design. "I don't usually do a whole lot on paper. So basically I make it and then manipulate that." He says the prototypes were important for ensuring it was a functional piece of design. The first metal base was bent over a bucket to create its round shape. "I wanted it to be strong, but [with a] low visual impact at the same time, so it was a fine line between the two," Timothy says. Krista says the low stool was soon followed by its taller brother and the wider-topped side table, due to demand. "The base was so versatile that it was actually easy to create a side table version of it." They've sold about 500 pieces across the range in the past four years, including commercial projects. There are also at least 15 custom coffee tables and low stools going into the Museum Art Hotel in Wellington in April, one for each room in the boutique hotel. Timothy is still getting to grips with his designs going to Google Hong Kong. "It's a bit surreal. You see other world-class designers in places like that and you never think that your work would be there as well," Timothy says.
A Perfect Pair
You probably haven't given much thought to the matter of your bedside table. For a long time, mine was simply a dumping ground for books, magazines, CDs, books, lists, vitamin bottles - and more books. Needless to say, it made my room look chaotic and messy, regardless of how tidy the rest of it was. The table itself, though rarely seen, was a 1970s-style table that I picked up cheaply at a secondhand store - and while it looked great, it wasn't the most sensible choice for someone who used their sidetable as a bookshelf. So I got a new one, complete with shelves, drawers - and a lamp for all that nighttime reading.Choosing the right bedside table and lamp combo will help reinforce your bedroom theme, whatever your bedroom personality might be. Classic? Harrowset Hall's vintage-look table teamed with a pretty pink cane lamp will bring some femininity into your room. Modern? Go for bold simple lines, like a classic white cube teamed with a standout metal and wood lamp from Republic. Or if girlish charm is more your style, team an intricate floral lamp with a simple 1960s magazine table. We also like the clash of the old and new, like a small retro wooden table under Nest's silver lamp with a quirky floral lightbulb.Some of the tables photographed here are actually intended for display in the lounge, but they will work in either room. The handmade acrylic Essey illusion table, designed by John Brauer, is an unexpected choice for a bedside table, and when teamed with a bold silver lamp, would bring some modern futurism into any room.1 Essey small Illusion side table , $580.00, from Design Denmark.Silver lamp , $129.90, from Allium.2 Antique style bedside table , $495, from Harrowset Hall.Vintage lamp , $45, from Ruby & Sol.3 White cube side table , $535, from Allium.Silver and tripod lamp , $519, from Republic.4 Retro bedside table , $40, from Ruby & Sol.Wrought iron rose lamp , $189, from Harrowset Hall.5 White pedestal table , $255, from Style Direct.Verner Panton Flower Pot lamp , $580.00, from Design Denmark.6 Vintage wooden sidetable sourced from The Hospice Shop.Small silver table lamp , $29.95, with flower bulb, $9.95, from Nest.
Cheap Bedside Tables 2019: the Best Bargain Bedside Cabinets and Tables
BEDSIDE tables range from elaborate sets of drawers to small tables only big enough for a lamp and a phone.They make our lives a whole lot easier - keeping a table lamp by your bed means you don't have to get up to turn the light off once you're settled. Or maybe you have glasses or contacts that you need to keep by your bed ready for the morning.Whatever the reason you need one, you don't have to break the bank to get a decent bedside table. There are a huge range of affordable styles available online.They can even add a touch of style to your bedroom, whether you want an oak wood bed frame or a marble set of drawers - a bedside table can be the finishing touch to your boudoir.You can never have too much storage either, it keeps your bedroom neat and tidy. So what are you waiting for?Take a look at our bargain list of tables for your night time essentials, from drawers to simple round designs, we've found everything.If you've already chosen white bedroom furniture, opt for this pristine bedside table from Ikea.In a basic rectangular shape, it's complete with a drawer and shelf to stack magazines or your books for bedtime reading.Featuring a wooden border, this white basic table has a stylish edge - for just £30 you can't go wrong.For a sleek set of bedside drawers, choose Made.These walnut effect steel drawers are set on slim metal legs and are ultra spacious - ideal to fit your pyjamas or bed linen.If your bedroom's minimalist with a neutral colouring, wooden drawers look best. Plus, dark wood is so chic.These mini drawers from B&Q have a versatile, soft wood tone that will go with any colour scheme.With smooth running drawers, made from forest-friendly timber, this is an absolute steal for under £40.Sometimes all you need is a basic set of drawers like these - perfect to fit your laptop inside and perch a glass of water on at bedtime.Made has some uber-stylish bedroom furniture - we love these hourglass timer shaped bedside tables.Available in brass or copper, these modern tables are perfect if you're looking for a cool bedroom accessory and a little place to pop your phone at night.Place a chic brass or copper lamp on top for interior design goals. They might look like trendy luxury tables, but without the luxurious price tag.For under £80, you can have these immaculate white mini drawers from B&Q for your bedside.From the Malmo White collection, this elegant white chest is the perfect storage for bed linen, clothes and accessories.Featuring classic round knobs and Edwardian-style legs, it's a beautifully classic addition to your boudoir.TOP TIP: Want a shabby chic look? Sandpaper the edges to create that coveted worn-in look.We said we'd find you bargains: this Ikea bedside table can be yours for under a tenner!It's super easy to assemble and perfect for use as temporary storage or in university rooms.It's compact so it's perfect if your bedroom's a little small, and even has a shelf too for your laptop or bedtime reading. What more could you want?Another stylish gem by Made...we're starting to see a pattern here.The Eibar side table has unique criss cross copper legs that'll have your room looking contemporary and oh so chic.Featuring a round grey table top, it'll look fabulous with a little plant pot for some Scandi interior vibes.Before you say this one's no bargain, consider that it's a life-long investment. For under £200 - oak wood will go with all your changing colour schemes.Rich in colour showing off a reclaimed finish, this smooth set of drawers is set on sturdy metal black legs and in a square shape, offers a spacious table too.Complete with one small drawer for your books and then a larger drawer perfect for your PJs - it's ideal for a little extra storage.Got a house to fill? Browse our Home section for more great household buys.Need a beanbag to give your living room added comfort? Read our beanbag reviews See our full range of reviews and great value buys, visit the Sun Selects homepage.This article and any featured products have been independently chosen by The Sun journalists. All recommendations within the article are informed by expert editorial opinion. If you click a link and buy a product we may earn revenue: this helps to support The Sun, and in no way affects our recommendations.
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