What Is the Difference Between a Condenser Coil and an Evaporator Coil?

In layman's terms: Condensor is by the radiator. It takes heat that is in the A/C system and dissipates it to the outside air. The evaporator is under the dash and absorbs the heat from inside your car to cool the car.

1. I have an central AC issue where the evaporator coil is leaking water. Help!?

Somewhat, The pressure readings alone are not enough to codemn a bad txv. The technician needs to make sure the indoor coil is clean, filter is okay, airflow across the coil is good. Those things would cause the the suction pressure to be low as well and cause the evaporator coil to freeze. But unlike a bad txv the superheat reading would be low, and by adding refrigerant the head pressure would rise along with a greater subcooling, He should have seen these things when he added the 410-A and gave him confirmation the txv is bad. There is a possibility the liquid line could be kinked but not likely if you did not have issues from the beginning after the unit was first installed, and also a possibility with a drier being restricted. Cost for a txv he should have given you, parts and labor roughly though ballpark 400-500. Ask him to be sure to change the liquid line drier after he opens the refrigeration system up, POE oil that is used with 410-A does not do well with outside air/ moisture. The drier will help that along with a good vacuum and a system that is not left open too long.

2. Three good considerations when setting an ac evaporator coil?

The only three setting(s) I can think of right off the top of my head would be: #1 making sure the condensate drain pan has adequate plumbing consideration for the drain pipe to have a P trap so sewer gas does not enter. #2 If it has a TXV, getting the thing adjusted to keep the evaporator from getting flooded, and slugging the compressor. #3 If it is set up with a piston/orifice, making sure the size is correct for the tonnage unit is crucial. From the piston/orifice, the distributor and proper length & diameter of what basically amounts to be several capillary tubes has to be correct. Thats my 2...

3. what should the labor cost for installing a evaporator coil (w/ expansion valve) be for attic a/c unit?

Two ways to do it - but $400 for two hours of work seems about right for HVAC techs. Here's what is involved for the tech... As long as you can get a matching evaporator coil here's the scope of what is involved. 1. Get EPA608 Type II License 2. Close service valve to HP 3. Recover refrigerant from line set and old evap. coil 4. Remove refrigerant lines and remove old coil. 5. Install new coil. Braze or silver solder lineset including a new filter drier. (if you braze you need a low flow of Nitrogen to prevent scale) 6. Pressurise system with Nitrogen and test for leaks. (soap solution). You can also pressurize with a small amount of R22 and Nitrogen and use a Halogen leak detector. (perfectly legal per EPA) 7. Evacuate system down to 500 microns. (or triple evacuate) 8. Charge with refrigerant. You will need the manufacturers chart or you will need to recover all the refrigerant and weigh it back in. I would guess it would take the better part of a day and you will need specialty HVAC tools/equipment like gauges/hose sets, Nitrogen bottle regulator, recovery machine cylinder, brazing equipment, leak detector, refrigerant and vacuum pump. And if you do it yourself without all those pesky certifications... 1. Park any remaing freon in your compressor, basically you shut off the liquid line at the compressor and put guage on the low side, when presure reaches zero, you shut off valve on the low side and cut off compressor immediately (it is best to get help with this so you can have some flip the switch as soon as low side is cut off, ie a few seconds, you do not want to continue running compressor with no gas coming in) 2. Your cut lines leading to evaporator coil with tubing cutter. 3. remove old coil. 4. slide in new coil. 5. braze lines back together 6. without opening the lines back up, pull a vacuum on the side of the compressor shut off valves that is open to the condensor. 7. shut off vaccum and see if vacuum level holds for at least 15 minutes, if it goes up or down, run vacuum pump again, I often just let it run for 2 or 3 hours after I determine there are no leaks in the system. 8. close valve on gauges to vaccum pump so that your systme maintains a vaccumm, open the liquid line first, then the gas line at the compressor. The freon you parked in the compresor is now back in the lines, let it settle for about 10 minutes and restart the system. You can then charge the system to the appropriate level. The notion that you have to purge the system of freon to change an evaporator coil is nonsense, nobody does that, the only time you have to purge the system is if you are changing a component, like a drier that is on then compresor side of your shut off valves, since there is no way to isolate the freon.

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What Is the Proper Way to Clean a Evaporator Coil?
If you are cleaning the outside of the coil, the condensate pan, etc., I would use degreaser and water. Cleaning the inside of the coil should be left to a pro.1. 98 Buick Lesabre evaporator coil?Unless you are taking it out and replacing it, there is no reason to access it. There is nothing serviceable. But anyways, it under your dashboard, in the same ductwork as your heater core. Get to it through the glove box, or underneath, taking off the lower ductwork.2. Help with central AC and copper tubing from evaporator coils?Regarding your condensate drain tube - is your home on a slab or pier and beam ? If you are on a slab you should be able to walk around and look until you see a stream of water exiting the house. If you are on pier and beam you would have water pooling under the house, and that might be a very bad thing, so you want to get under the house and look for the tube. Some people have the water drain into their sewer system, which can be done with a floor drain or into the water drain pipe for the washing machine. As for the people who service the AC unit, I suggest you take several photographs of your problems and then personally visit a business that services AC units and discuss with a manager your frequent problems, then visit another service business with that information and see what they tell you. Once you decide on a service company it helps them to have everything known, on a checklist, before the service tech arrives on the premises; the checklist is to ensure all of your questions are answered.3. What's the Difference Between the Condenser and Evaporator Coils?The evaporator and condenser coils in an air conditioner are heat movers. One extracts heat from inside your house and the other dumps that heat outdoors. The end result of this process is a cooler, more comfortable indoor environment. In addition to getting the heat out of the house, the evaporator coil performs the function of reducing humidity. Because moist air holds heat energy, lowering the humidity promotes more effective cooling. Central air conditioning is a closed-loop system. What flows through that loop is refrigerant - a substance that readily absorbs heat energy, shifting from a vapor to liquid state and back again. Through an insulated conduit connecting the coils, refrigerant flows from the indoor evaporator coil through the system compressor to the outdoor condenser coil, then loops back to the evaporator. Here's how the evaporator and condenser coils perform the heavy lifting of keeping your house comfortable: Cold refrigerant vapor passes through the evaporator coil tubing as warm indoor air is drawn through coil air passages by the air handler blower. Heat energy in the air conducts through the copper surfaces of the coil and is absorbed by the frigid refrigerant. The refrigerant flows through the conduit to the A/C outdoor component. A compressor pressurizes the refrigerant, concentrating heat energy and converting it to a hot liquid as it enters the condenser coil. Rapid condensation inside the condenser coil tubing causes the hot refrigerant to convert to a liquid state and rapidly release the stored heat energy. As the condenser fan pulls air through the coil passageways, this heat is dispersed by aluminum coil fins into outside air. Liquid refrigerant now completes the return trip to the evaporator and the process repeats. We are your source for residential and commercial services in the Norfolk County area.4. why does an ac unit being low on refrigerant cause the evaporator to freeze up?The freon enters the evaporator through a thermal control valve. The pressure drop causes the freon to change from a liquid to a gas and in doing so cools the evaporator. If the freon is low the pressure at the output of the evaporator falls below its normal level and with freon, pressure is equivalent to its temperature. Normal output pressure for R-134a should be above 30 psig ( 34.5 degrees F), if it drops below 28 psig (32.2 degree F) there is a chance the evaporator can freeze.5. What kind/size of Evaporator Coil do I need for a 2.5 Ton Trane A/C Condensor (XB12)?You sure thats not a HEAT PUMP? XB12's were heat pumps. If memory serves me that was on a 12 seer rated. So in this case you going to want to get a R410A 13 Seer 2.5 Ton cased coil. It will match the system as closely as it was originally designed. The system is R22. You will not find the proper matched "12 seer coil" A R410A Evaporator Cased coil will work fine. Which will be rated for R410A / R22. You also going to need a Bi-flow liquid line drier. You going to need to consult with an HVAC company to complete this installation as this will be WAY over your head. And if Im correct if this is a heat pump, your going to have to change out the thermostat or you can just wire it up for cooling only if you have a gas furnace.
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